This is when you need an HDMI switch, a splitter, or both

• What is an HDMI switch for?
• What is an HDMI splitter for?
• Do you really need either?

One of my long-standing pet peeves about smart TVs has been how stingy some makers are about ports. Budget sets may have as few as two or three ports, and models with four ports won’t necessarily support HDMI 2.1 across the board, let alone HDMI 2.2. The result is that you can accidentally cripple the features on a console, media streamer, or sound system because a company wanted to save a little cash producing each unit.

If you’ve run into port limitations, you may be considering an HDMI switch or splitter to get around them. But there’s quite a difference between the two accessory types, and you’ll need to be very picky about the specs you choose for either. In fact, you almost certainly don’t need a splitter, as I’ll make clear in a moment.

What is an HDMI switch for?

And the specs you need to know

If they were more aptly named, switches would be called expanders. When you’ve got one plugged into one of your TV’s HDMI ports, it multiplies that into two or more inputs. Some models may integrate splitter functions as well, but I’ll avoid talking about those until the next section, for the sake of clarity.

The most obvious reason to get a switch is if a TV’s native inputs are totally occupied, but there are two other reasons, the first being HDMI compatibility (as I hinted up top). Only HDMI 2.1 and 2.2 support VRR (variable refresh rate) and ALLM (auto low-latency mode), features that can be essential for gaming. You’ll also want 2.1 or later for dynamic HDR formats, namely Dolby Vision and HDR10+, as well as the lossless versions of audio standards like Dolby Atmos. Moreover, 2.0 ports can’t take advantage of 120Hz refresh rates at 4K resolution, or even 60Hz on an 8K set.

In theory, then, if your TV is only equipped with two HDMI 2.1 ports, a switch could let you fully exploit an Apple TV 4K and a PlayStation 5 Pro on one of them, while still reserving a slot for your eARC-ready soundbar. It’s absolutely essential that HDMI-based audio gear be connected to a port marked for ARC or eARC, and unfortunately, there’s often one such option.

The most obvious reason to get a switch is if a TV’s native inputs are totally occupied, but there are other reasons, such as HDMI version compatibility.

The last benefit is physical accessibility. HDMI ports are always shoved to the back or sides of a TV, making them awkward to access at best. A front-facing switch can make it easier to swap cables — which probably isn’t important to most people, but could matter a great deal if you own multiple consoles, or you want to be able to link video from computers, phones, or cameras on a regular basis. I used to be a pro photographer, and it would’ve looked distinctly unprofessional if I’d had to fumble around for a couple of minutes to preview material for a client.

There are some important caveats with switches, above all the need to match HDMI versions. An HDMI 2.0 switch will bottleneck a 2.1 input, and a 2.1 switch won’t magically upgrade a 2.0 port. You can usually make sure you’re getting the right gear by searching online stores for “HDMI 2.1 switch.” Another way of doublechecking is if a listing claims a switch supports 8K at 60Hz, or 4K at 120 or 240Hz. You’ll need to extend this matching to cables as well — if you don’t, you might as well be racing a Porsche down a gravel backroad.

You should also prefer switches with a bundled remote. Newer switches can pick devices automatically based on what’s active, but that won’t always help, especially if the devices are always running in some capacity. Without a remote, you may have to periodically get up and walk over to your TV to select a device.

Don’t overspend. You might like the idea of a four- or five-port switch, but that’s overkill for most consumer purposes. Two or three ports should do in the average home, saving you both space and money.

What is an HDMI splitter for?

A very niche tool outside of your job

A splitter reverses the direction of a switch. Instead of multiplying the inputs on your TV, a splitter allows a single peripheral to output to multiple displays. You can buy a dedicated splitter, or a switch that includes some sort of splitting function, indicated by labeled outputs. It’s rare for any consumer splitter to offer more than two outputs.

Needless to say, a splitter isn’t useful in most homes. While a lot of people do own multiple TVs, it’s rare that a second set is going to be within cable range of the first, or that you’re going to want to duplicate video to begin with. You’re more likely to find splitters in offices, sports bars, and other commercial environments.

That said, there are some niche applications for splitters in the home. If you’ve got a PC, for instance, a splitter might let you quickly switch from desktop use to a bigger screen, providing better immersion for games and movies. You might also need a splitter for some streaming or recording setups, although that’s usually redundant with a computer capture card.

A splitter allows a single peripheral to output to multiple displays.

As with switches, it’s important that a splitter match (or exceed) the HDMI versions of the ports and cables you’re connecting to. There’s an additional wrinkle here, which is that some splitters will default to the lowest common resolution among outputs. If one TV is running at 4K, but the other is at 1080p, you may get 1080p for both displays. To avoid this, you’ll need to hunt for a splitter that supports downscaling.

Another issue to be aware of is HDCP. That stands for High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, and it’s something normally built into HDMI equipment to deter piracy. Splitters don’t always play nicely with HDCP, so it’s vital to check for that acronym in product specs. Without it, you might find that a movie or TV show won’t appear on any of your screens.

Lastly, you may want to make sure you’re buying a powered unit. Unpowered splitters can be viable, but there’s a risk of reliability issues, and you’re not really saving much money by going the unpowered route. It’s better to be safe than sorry, particularly if you do need a splitter for your job.

Do you really need either?

Some final thoughts

If you play your cards right, probably not. There are very few reasons to own a splitter. As for switches, many of you are going to have minimalist home theater setups, limited to a TV, a soundbar, and maybe a console or add-on media streamer. Given that some soundbars can serve as their own hubs for HDMI devices, you may not need any more than one or two ports on your TV.

Many of you are going to have minimalist home theater setups, limited to a TV, a soundbar, and maybe a console or add-on media streamer.

Things can get complicated, though. Some homes have multiple gaming devices, a cable box, and/or a DVD or Blu-ray player, and that mix can rapidly swallow up the ports that maximize their features. Not all soundbars can act as a hub, either. Even Sonos’ top-of-the-line Arc Ultra is missing the technology.

Before you buy anything, do an inventory of all the devices you have, the ports and cables available, and what versions of HDMI they’re rated for. If you don’t already have all the right cables, it may be both easier and cheaper to disconnect seldom-used devices, reconnecting them only if needed. You probably aren’t watching many DVDs when the alternative is 1080p or 4K from a streaming service.